I agree, and it is a matter of adding some of the Mods yourself to make it the way you want it is what the simple machine allows.
Adding the water mixing valve circuits would require at least 2 check valves and a regulating valve to add the cold water to the dispensing wand. It all takes up space and money :-)
Stephen Sweeney post=6799 wrote: And if you are adding water to an Americano or to an existing tea then the mess get larger because it is more than water.
For heating a cup it works great! For adding water to an existing drink then not so much.
I maybe should have showed how to do the Americano too.
But keep in mind that adding hot water to an Americano is probably not the right thing to do.
It is too hot. Makes the coffee bitter.
For an Americano first tap hot water in the cup, then grind, then fill the portafilter then extract into the (now less hot) water. The Americano will be less bitter.
As for tea, anyone serious about tea won't use that hot water tap anyway!
Be careful what you wish for: if you want a mix of cool water and hot water out of the wand, imagine the cost and the price of custom made extra copper tubing running all across your machine to facilitate this device that supplies the cold/hot water mix:
Also imagine assembling it and performing the frequent servicing and after a year or two replacing all of the valves to ensure it remains working. Assuming you won't need video / forum support every step along the way ;-)
For heating cups, and you should be doing this even if you like to sit your cups upside down on the top of the machine, you want the water as hot as possible. For this reason I run off the first 50mL or so until the hottest water arrives. I then close the valve and place the cup underneath, remove my hand, and progressively open the hot water valve again. I've really got no idea what all the fuss is about - I can't imagine the experience is vastly different on almost all of the other espresso machines on the market
It's a fairly standard thread on the end so if it troubles you that much you can unscrew the nut and throw the fitting in the bin and screw on whatever takes your fancy
The white gauge is standard issue on all our machines All machines come with wooden handles As you may recall, at the beginning we offered lots of options and it precluded us from having machines on the shelf, ready to ship It is also difficult to manage So now our range is standardised and it allows us to have stock on the shelf for a timely despatch
In your case, and indeed of any existing L1 owner considering buying a second machine from us I am willing to make exceptions if I am able Some things I just don't have stock of anymore though, like the black thermoplastic toggles, although we will have one in another profile available to us I'm sure
It's all about generating efficiency for us, and to achieve that a standard build that meets the needs of most (but not all) prospective customers is the only way for us to go We're not wanting to be creators of one off bespoke machines indulging every whim that comes along - that gets seriously expensive and our manufacturer wouldn't be interested in it either
We bold solid, simple, durable machines that make exceptional espresso in the hands of an average user - ie you don't have to be a WBC to get our machines to deliver a first class result in the cup
just imagine taking an angle grinder to the middle of an L2 and making a vertical cut right though the machine
thats what the L1-P is
exactly half the boiler volume (14 litres becomes 7 litres), a sight glass just like the L2, the same pressure gauge that we are already using, the same pressure stat that we are using (the L1 now uses the same 30A pressure stat as on the L2 and L3 so it is common to all our machines), the same wire drip grate as the L2 & L3, the same cup tray/crown design. UK owners will like it because they will be able to plug it straight into their beloved 13A wall socket as i think we will use an element around 2700W
hopefully you can see a common denominator here; simplicity
quite frankly if you saw me making any significant design changes at this stage you should be wondering if i screwed it up on the first attempt
i do hope to make one little change and that is to pull the blue fill light out from behind the sight glass and mount it over on the right hand side with the red and white lights so they are all in a line, as they are on the L1 but this will depend on whether it is possible with the existing wiring loom
if it ain't broke, don't fix it: it applies to product design too
Reiss Gunson post=6967 wrote: t i do hope to make one little change and that is to pull the blue fill light out from behind the sight glass and mount it over on the right hand side with the red and white lights so they are all in a line, as they are on the L1 but this will depend on whether it is possible with the existing wiring loom
Why not leave the lamp behind the water fill tube so the fill level would be easier to see? Or maybe put a Power ON Lamp behind the Fill Level Indicator?
Er Frans the water in the boiler is fresh... I for one would not like to drink stale coffee and since a cup of coffee is 99.999% water, I am glad that Reiss has provided a hot water tap... It wasn't in some of the earlier designs... but there was a sight glass, if I remember.
I have never understood what lies behind that mantra regarding the boiling of a fresh kettle of water...? Unless there is so much chalk in it, that boiled twice it has probably dropped most deposits onto the kettle elephant. That might alter the flavour somewhat.
How does the drip tray interface with the front panel? On my early L-I I really like that overlap that insures no water will creep behind the tray; is this the case in the L-1-P, L-II or L-III???
Good detailed photos of the L-II and the L-III (assuming the L1-P is the same) would really help the entire line, not just promotional photos of a fine looking machine on a distant bench but up close photos of details.
Frames and panels cut out and waiting in the queue for the bending machine this week
The drip trays on the L3, 2, and 1-P are all pressed, rather than fabricated as they are on the L1 as they are only shallow - perhaps 15mm deep as they are drained
We'll get some L1-P images rolling along in due course I'm sure
Frames and panels cut out and waiting in the queue for the bending machine this week
The drip trays on the L3, 2, and 1-P are all pressed, rather than fabricated as they are on the L1 as they are only shallow - perhaps 15mm deep as they are drained
We'll get some L1-P images rolling along in due course I'm sure
Best
Reiss
Where would I find photos of the L-II and the L-III that show details?
Comments
Adding the water mixing valve circuits would require at least 2 check valves and a regulating valve to add the cold water to the dispensing wand. It all takes up space and money :-)
I maybe should have showed how to do the Americano too.
But keep in mind that adding hot water to an Americano is probably not the right thing to do.
It is too hot. Makes the coffee bitter.
For an Americano first tap hot water in the cup, then grind, then fill the portafilter then extract into the (now less hot) water. The Americano will be less bitter.
As for tea, anyone serious about tea won't use that hot water tap anyway!
Americano=water first
Tea=forget the wand
Also imagine assembling it and performing the frequent servicing and after a year or two replacing all of the valves to ensure it remains working. Assuming you won't need video / forum support every step along the way ;-)
It's a fairly standard thread on the end so if it troubles you that much you can unscrew the nut and throw the fitting in the bin and screw on whatever takes your fancy
Kind regards
Reiss
Would it come with wooden handles or plastic? If it comes with wood could plastic be ordered at the time of build?
The white gauge is standard issue on all our machines
All machines come with wooden handles
As you may recall, at the beginning we offered lots of options and it precluded us from having machines on the shelf, ready to ship
It is also difficult to manage
So now our range is standardised and it allows us to have stock on the shelf for a timely despatch
In your case, and indeed of any existing L1 owner considering buying a second machine from us I am willing to make exceptions if I am able
Some things I just don't have stock of anymore though, like the black thermoplastic toggles, although we will have one in another profile available to us I'm sure
It's all about generating efficiency for us, and to achieve that a standard build that meets the needs of most (but not all) prospective customers is the only way for us to go
We're not wanting to be creators of one off bespoke machines indulging every whim that comes along - that gets seriously expensive and our manufacturer wouldn't be interested in it either
We bold solid, simple, durable machines that make exceptional espresso in the hands of an average user - ie you don't have to be a WBC to get our machines to deliver a first class result in the cup
You are right!
Most of these questions have already been answered and the easiest way to find the information is to read what is there already:
Around xmas Reiss wrote this already in this very thread:
its very easy to visualise the L1-P;
just imagine taking an angle grinder to the middle of an L2 and making a vertical cut right though the machine
thats what the L1-P is
exactly half the boiler volume (14 litres becomes 7 litres), a sight glass just like the L2, the same pressure gauge that we are already using, the same pressure stat that we are using (the L1 now uses the same 30A pressure stat as on the L2 and L3 so it is common to all our machines), the same wire drip grate as the L2 & L3, the same cup tray/crown design. UK owners will like it because they will be able to plug it straight into their beloved 13A wall socket as i think we will use an element around 2700W
hopefully you can see a common denominator here; simplicity
quite frankly if you saw me making any significant design changes at this stage you should be wondering if i screwed it up on the first attempt
i do hope to make one little change and that is to pull the blue fill light out from behind the sight glass and mount it over on the right hand side with the red and white lights so they are all in a line, as they are on the L1 but this will depend on whether it is possible with the existing wiring loom
if it ain't broke, don't fix it: it applies to product design too
Why not leave the lamp behind the water fill tube so the fill level would be easier to see? Or maybe put a Power ON Lamp behind the Fill Level Indicator?
I have never understood what lies behind that mantra regarding the boiling of a fresh kettle of water...? Unless there is so much chalk in it, that boiled twice it has probably dropped most deposits onto the kettle elephant. That might alter the flavour somewhat.
All our machines are single spring
I purchased a double spring top to test
I was disappointed - it takes the taste in the direction of a pump extraction, so I really can't see the point
Yes, the next thing to come out will be our revised button tamper in about a week I think
I will be asking for an L1-P update next week, with some solid progress to report I think
Kind regards
Reiss
its here
kind regards
reiss.
Any indication of price available or is that a secret for the big reveal?
with a little bit of luck you'll even find that the ability to nutate more easily with it gives you a more even extraction across the entire puck
no price change - which is why you can pre-order them using the out going design that is already set up in our store - i am reluctant to drop gary's pro-shot image until i get him to take a shot of the revised design to replace it
reiss.
It hides to the left of the grinders, close to the water source.
Updated dimensions and specifications?
How does the drip tray interface with the front panel? On my early L-I I really like that overlap that insures no water will creep behind the tray; is this the case in the L-1-P, L-II or L-III???
Good detailed photos of the L-II and the L-III (assuming the L1-P is the same) would really help the entire line, not just promotional photos of a fine looking machine on a distant bench but up close photos of details.
No changes, nothing to report
Frames and panels cut out and waiting in the queue for the bending machine this week
The drip trays on the L3, 2, and 1-P are all pressed, rather than fabricated as they are on the L1 as they are only shallow - perhaps 15mm deep as they are drained
We'll get some L1-P images rolling along in due course I'm sure
Best
Reiss
Where would I find photos of the L-II and the L-III that show details?
its a bit of a niche market as it is plumbed only, 240V only, larger dimensions, weighs more, and costs more to run and ship
but lets see - nothing ventured, nothing gained