I'm missing about 1/16th of a turn to lock the T fitting in it's original position. Do I use the hammer & wrench technique or do I unscrew it a full turn? Seems silly... Applied loxeal on 1st 2 threads of the male fitting.
There is nothing obvious blocking the injector but there is some scale build up so I'll give all the dirty parts a nice acid citric bath and will put it all back together later today. Hopefully I can appreciate that 1st Londinium espresso I've beeb dreaming about for years!
Do I only use Loxeal on the T fitting? There seemed to he some sort of thread sealant on the level probe and safety valve as well. I would assume the copper washer is enough to assure a solid seal...
Exciting!
Jonathan
1. great 2. if you've got the loxeal 55-03 definitely use it on all the threads - just 1 drop 180 degrees apart 3. any chance of a side image of the injector?
Jonathan Lambin post=15209 wrote: I'm missing about 1/16th of a turn to lock the T fitting in it's original position. Do I use the hammer & wrench technique or do I unscrew it a full turn? Seems silly... Applied loxeal on 1st 2 threads of the male fitting.
use the same hammer and wrench technique to shock all the fittings tight as you used to loosen them
each time you strike the wrench with the hammer check that the fitting has moved - when it stops turning in response to a strike with the hammer on the end of the wrench it is time to stop tightening or you will burst the threads
i turn the fitting up normally until i feel it start to tighten (just with the wrench, no hammer), then i would use the hammer once and the wrench will almost fly out of my hand on the first strike if i haven't got a good grip
on the second strike of the hammer you can feel the threads arresting the progress of the wrench
on the third strike with the hammer it comes up tight and only moves the slightest amount, perhaps 10-15 degrees. that tells you it is time to stop
when the fitting only moves 10-15 degrees in response to the hammer strike it is time to stop.
Jonathan Lambin post=15212 wrote: Turns out I had a brand new bottle of 18-10 at the house. Guess I bought it a while back and forget I had it.
Any recommendation for the T? Want me to take it off and send you a side picture? Everything is pretty much scale free and shiny by now.
Jonathan
if you're happy im happy i presume you let the whole boiler soak in descaler and then you flushed the inside of the boiler and the HX tube thoroughly to ensure every speck of grit, muck, freed limescale, etc was gone?
descaling is only half the job - ensuring every speck of liberated limescale has been flushed out after descaling is the tricky bit otherwise it is likely to mobilise when the system is refilled and block any small opening in the system, like the injector tip, and then you will still have a cold system
Reiss... She's alive!! Thank you for the precious help and even more so for your patience.
I do have one last question for you before putting the panels back on.
I do hear a very slight hissing (might not even hear it with the panels on). It seems to be coming from left side of the boiler and I was able to tighten pretty much all of the fittings and valves but I can still hear it. The only fittings I don't have access to are the ts T, the left termosiphon fitting on the T and the boiler to water valve pipe. Should there be a slight noise during the cooling cycle? I know it's not always relevant but a full cycle takes around 70 seconds right now (heating and cooling)
I temporarily fixed the leaking safety valve and will most likely make an order after Christmas. Need to figure out if I need more stufd from Londinium 's shop as shipping charges to Canada are a little high for a single item per command.
I know this was mostly a dialogue but I wanna close this topic with a picture that will give hope to the next person that encounters a similar issue...
Cheers!
Reiss, thanks for helping me throughout this whole adventure!
Reiss Gunson post=15217 wrote: like i said earlier in this thread, it will be the crappy first generation safety valve you've got. replace.
I need to replace my first generation safety valve as well. I bought the newer model a while back, as well as some Loxeal 55-03 and an engineer's hammer. Is there a particular thread on carrying out this replacement or is it pretty obvious what to do?
thank you for coming back to close out the thread; this way someone with a similar problem in the future knows that it solved the issue
it would have been good to get an image of what the thermosiphon injector looked like prior to a descale too, but never mind
on your model remember to perform a little flush of just 30-50mL immediately after you have emptied the used puck from the portafilter to ensure the thermosiphon is restored if flash boiling when the shot was pulled - the higher you run the boiler pressure the greater the risk of flash boiling when the shot is pulled
Matthew Hoffman post=15225 wrote: [quote=Reiss Gunson post=15217]like i said earlier in this thread, it will be the crappy first generation safety valve you've got. replace.
I need to replace my first generation safety valve as well. I bought the newer model a while back, as well as some Loxeal 55-03 and an engineer's hammer. Is there a particular thread on carrying out this replacement or is it pretty obvious what to do?
Thanks, Matt
hi matt if you watch the video clip showing tije fitting the new digital preinfusion kit to frans' machine in the News section of this website you can observe exactly the hammer and wrench technique being used to good effect; copy it
getting the old safety valve off is a bit of a pain as the nut that you need to loosen is right at the bottom of the valve hard against the boiler, meaning you will have to have the wrench inclined to clear the top of the anti vac valve, but it is all 'do-able'
putting the new safety valve on does not present that same issue as the nut has been machined higher up in the middle of the valve so your wrench can be deployed level and it will clear the safety valve
do not put the wrench on the upper nut machined on either the old valve or the new, as this merely unscrews the anti-tamper cap on the valve
happy to provide FaceTime/WhatsApp supervision if desired
The injector had a bit of visible scale but not much really. That being said, I did spend 3-4 days heating the T fitting and knocking around with a wrench and a hammer until I finally won that battle so I'm suspecting there was more nastiness in there than what the picture revealed.
I will say this, to anyone in the future who ever stumble on this topic and his looking for reasons why their Londinium is producing mediocre tasting, underextracted espresso... Fire it up and wait a solid hour. Find a way to get a proper group temperature reading. Check for false pressure or any leaks. If any of these check, go through the topic again or contact Reiss. I, like many other espresso enthusiasts, tend to overcomplicate things a bit... My Londinium 1 is running smoothly and I'm quite impressed with the performances, after only 2 days of proper working.
So far, the group has not overheated when left idling. That's a HUGE plus since I like my machine to be ready to pull a shot at anytime.
I'm impressed.
Here's a pic of how my machine is setup. Lots of space to breath...
Can you send me a link for those cooper crusher washer too? I'd take 3-4 of those.
One more question, is the IMS 18-20g a good match with my L1? Is there a need for higher doses with the L1 lower PI pressure? I have the stock double and EPHQ14 for now. I do drink some light roasts every now and then.
Ordered. Was wondering if this washer is the same one used for the vacuum relief and the nut behind the group as I'm looking for spare ones for these as well.
Do you ship with UK local carrier or DHL for small orders?
Thanks Reiss!
*it seems a happy birthday is (was) in order so... happy birthday!
the 3/8" copper washer might fit the nut in the neck of the group but i think the anti-vac valve one is slightly smaller
we use DHL for UK domestic and international as Paypal demand that we use a POD tracking service otherwise they instantly refund the customer with no discussion whatsoever
I woke up this morning and my L1 was behaving strangely. It's on a timer so it was turned on a few hours prior. Shot volume is super low. Can only pull ristretto range. Level catch is much higher than usual. Almost at 12 o'clock. Puck is super wet. Flow is normal and extractions are great but low in volume.
Suspecting the water chamber is not getting fully filled somehow. Did not change anything overnight (!). Not apparent leak under the hood.
I will let it cool down and relube the seals. Suggestions are welcome!
She was behaving wonderfully ever since the whole tear down...
Good evening, received my order earlier today (that was quick!) and I have dissembled the steam wand on my L1 to replace it with the LR steam wand I just received. The new LR wand does not have any teflon seal. Do I use the one in my L1 or is the assembly different? I was also wondering if the stainless washer goes on top of the teflon seal?
I assembled the LR steam wand using the white teflon seal from my L1 steam wand. Lubed and tightened. Have yet to steam milk but it all seems fine to me. BUT... for the life of me I can't fjgure out the metal washer I'm left with?!? I could have sworn it popped out with the spring and seat assembly. Now I'm thinking it's not part of the machine??? Weird...
yes, the washer has fallen into your package accidentally is my assumption. please discard
we are no longer using the PTFE washer, but instead a 'fat' o-ring - if you can retrieve the PTFE washer from the old wand that is great, but sometimes the deform too much to be reused
apologies for the delayed reply - january in the southern hemisphere is the equivalent of august in the northern hemisphere, so i was out on the water yesterday - i expect you have figured out all of the above already by now
Thanks Reiss. I'm all set up. The PTFE washer is still working fine. I know I'm 2+ year late but the distribution tool is a superb design! Well done!
The "not so new" LR wand a 4x1mm tip is also an easy but immediate upgrade. I can't see how you guys are making any money at the price you're selling those for but I have to say, it's kinda refreshing...
I paid a closer look this morning and I can hear a small hissing noise near the top nut of my new steam wand. I guess the PTFE washer is tired after all.
How can I get my hands on one of those fat o rings?
you may suspect you have a leak at that point in the assembly but two things;
1. it won't be the fault of the ptfe washer - it is only acting as a 'spacer' to compress the spring above so it applies pressure on the ball end of the steam wand so the steam wand doesn't flop around: the ptfe washer has no sealing function
2. you can not have a leak there because the steam can not travel through the valve body as it is closed, assuming the valve toggle is central and is not resting slightly off axis, in which case you will get a steam passing through the valve
Comments
Applied loxeal on 1st 2 threads of the male fitting.
1. great
2. if you've got the loxeal 55-03 definitely use it on all the threads - just 1 drop 180 degrees apart
3. any chance of a side image of the injector?
Any recommendation for the T?
Want me to take it off and send you a side picture? Everything is pretty much scale free and shiny by now.
Jonathan
use the same hammer and wrench technique to shock all the fittings tight as you used to loosen them
each time you strike the wrench with the hammer check that the fitting has moved - when it stops turning in response to a strike with the hammer on the end of the wrench it is time to stop tightening or you will burst the threads
i turn the fitting up normally until i feel it start to tighten (just with the wrench, no hammer), then i would use the hammer once and the wrench will almost fly out of my hand on the first strike if i haven't got a good grip
on the second strike of the hammer you can feel the threads arresting the progress of the wrench
on the third strike with the hammer it comes up tight and only moves the slightest amount, perhaps 10-15 degrees. that tells you it is time to stop
when the fitting only moves 10-15 degrees in response to the hammer strike it is time to stop.
if you're happy im happy
i presume you let the whole boiler soak in descaler and then you flushed the inside of the boiler and the HX tube thoroughly to ensure every speck of grit, muck, freed limescale, etc was gone?
descaling is only half the job - ensuring every speck of liberated limescale has been flushed out after descaling is the tricky bit otherwise it is likely to mobilise when the system is refilled and block any small opening in the system, like the injector tip, and then you will still have a cold system
Thank you for the precious help and even more so for your patience.
I do have one last question for you before putting the panels back on.
I do hear a very slight hissing (might not even hear it with the panels on). It seems to be coming from left side of the boiler and I was able to tighten pretty much all of the fittings and valves but I can still hear it. The only fittings I don't have access to are the ts T, the left termosiphon fitting on the T and the boiler to water valve pipe.
Should there be a slight noise during the cooling cycle?
I know it's not always relevant but a full cycle takes around 70 seconds right now (heating and cooling)
There is no water nor steam visible anywhere.
I left the 18-10 loxeal dry for 3+hrs.
Thoughts?
Thanks (once more)
Jonathan
I know this was mostly a dialogue but I wanna close this topic with a picture that will give hope to the next person that encounters a similar issue...
Cheers!
Reiss, thanks for helping me throughout this whole adventure!
I need to replace my first generation safety valve as well. I bought the newer model a while back, as well as some Loxeal 55-03 and an engineer's hammer. Is there a particular thread on carrying out this replacement or is it pretty obvious what to do?
Thanks,
Matt
thank you for coming back to close out the thread; this way someone with a similar problem in the future knows that it solved the issue
it would have been good to get an image of what the thermosiphon injector looked like prior to a descale too, but never mind
on your model remember to perform a little flush of just 30-50mL immediately after you have emptied the used puck from the portafilter to ensure the thermosiphon is restored if flash boiling when the shot was pulled - the higher you run the boiler pressure the greater the risk of flash boiling when the shot is pulled
kind regards
reiss.
I need to replace my first generation safety valve as well. I bought the newer model a while back, as well as some Loxeal 55-03 and an engineer's hammer. Is there a particular thread on carrying out this replacement or is it pretty obvious what to do?
Thanks,
Matt
hi matt
if you watch the video clip showing tije fitting the new digital preinfusion kit to frans' machine in the News section of this website you can observe exactly the hammer and wrench technique being used to good effect; copy it
getting the old safety valve off is a bit of a pain as the nut that you need to loosen is right at the bottom of the valve hard against the boiler, meaning you will have to have the wrench inclined to clear the top of the anti vac valve, but it is all 'do-able'
putting the new safety valve on does not present that same issue as the nut has been machined higher up in the middle of the valve so your wrench can be deployed level and it will clear the safety valve
do not put the wrench on the upper nut machined on either the old valve or the new, as this merely unscrews the anti-tamper cap on the valve
happy to provide FaceTime/WhatsApp supervision if desired
kind regards
reiss.
I will say this, to anyone in the future who ever stumble on this topic and his looking for reasons why their Londinium is producing mediocre tasting, underextracted espresso...
Fire it up and wait a solid hour.
Find a way to get a proper group temperature reading.
Check for false pressure or any leaks.
If any of these check, go through the topic again or contact Reiss.
I, like many other espresso enthusiasts, tend to overcomplicate things a bit... My Londinium 1 is running smoothly and I'm quite impressed with the performances, after only 2 days of proper working.
So far, the group has not overheated when left idling. That's a HUGE plus since I like my machine to be ready to pull a shot at anytime.
I'm impressed.
Here's a pic of how my machine is setup. Lots of space to breath...
Happy Xmas,
Matt
I wanna order the following:
Can you send me a link for those cooper crusher washer too? I'd take 3-4 of those.
One more question, is the IMS 18-20g a good match with my L1? Is there a need for higher doses with the L1 lower PI pressure? I have the stock double and EPHQ14 for now. I do drink some light roasts every now and then.
Cheers!
Happy holidays!
i have not got the copper crush washers on my website, but when the factory opens next week i can do that
the 18-20g basket is useful even for your L1 (2012-16)
kind regards
reiss.
Do you ship with UK local carrier or DHL for small orders?
Thanks Reiss!
*it seems a happy birthday is (was) in order so... happy birthday!
the 3/8" copper washer might fit the nut in the neck of the group but i think the anti-vac valve one is slightly smaller
we use DHL for UK domestic and international as Paypal demand that we use a POD tracking service otherwise they instantly refund the customer with no discussion whatsoever
kind regards
reiss.
It's on a timer so it was turned on a few hours prior.
Shot volume is super low. Can only pull ristretto range. Level catch is much higher than usual. Almost at 12 o'clock. Puck is super wet. Flow is normal and extractions are great but low in volume.
Suspecting the water chamber is not getting fully filled somehow. Did not change anything overnight (!). Not apparent leak under the hood.
I will let it cool down and relube the seals. Suggestions are welcome!
She was behaving wonderfully ever since the whole tear down...
Have a good Saturday!
Jonathan
The new LR wand does not have any teflon seal.
Do I use the one in my L1 or is the assembly different?
I was also wondering if the stainless washer goes on top of the teflon seal?
Thanks!
BUT... for the life of me I can't fjgure out the metal washer I'm left with?!? I could have sworn it popped out with the spring and seat assembly. Now I'm thinking it's not part of the machine???
Weird...
yes, the washer has fallen into your package accidentally is my assumption. please discard
we are no longer using the PTFE washer, but instead a 'fat' o-ring - if you can retrieve the PTFE washer from the old wand that is great, but sometimes the deform too much to be reused
apologies for the delayed reply - january in the southern hemisphere is the equivalent of august in the northern hemisphere, so i was out on the water yesterday - i expect you have figured out all of the above already by now
kind regards
reiss.
The "not so new" LR wand a 4x1mm tip is also an easy but immediate upgrade. I can't see how you guys are making any money at the price you're selling those for but I have to say, it's kinda refreshing...
Cheers!
How can I get my hands on one of those fat o rings?
Have a good weekend!
*no rush
you may suspect you have a leak at that point in the assembly but two things;
1. it won't be the fault of the ptfe washer - it is only acting as a 'spacer' to compress the spring above so it applies pressure on the ball end of the steam wand so the steam wand doesn't flop around: the ptfe washer has no sealing function
2. you can not have a leak there because the steam can not travel through the valve body as it is closed, assuming the valve toggle is central and is not resting slightly off axis, in which case you will get a steam passing through the valve
kind regards
reiss.
Thanks for the precisions.
Jonathan