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Replacing safety valve
Reiss, I've been thinking of finally getting around to installing the modern version of the safety valve, which I bought last year. The machine rarely gets fully hot in the morning, no matter how many hours it is switched on for before I go into the kitchen. A flush or two brings the group up to temp, and it is stable the rest of the day. I can't detect any leaks but I suppose there is a tiny one. Anyway, I noticed there was a recent discussion here about the copper washer beneath the nut that holds the valve to the boiler. Can I just reuse the one that is there already?
I'll also need to remove a couple of pipes to get room to get a wrench into place. Do I have to know anything beyond your advice to use sharp taps with an engineer's hammer to the 22mm spanner handle to loosen the nuts? Do I need to use a thread locker when reinstalling the pipes and the safety valve?
Thanks,
Matt
I'll also need to remove a couple of pipes to get room to get a wrench into place. Do I have to know anything beyond your advice to use sharp taps with an engineer's hammer to the 22mm spanner handle to loosen the nuts? Do I need to use a thread locker when reinstalling the pipes and the safety valve?
Thanks,
Matt
Comments
replacing the safety valve will not address your issue - the new design of safety valve will stop any hiss and result in your machine using slightly less energy, but it is not responsible for your machine not reaching the correct operating temperature until after the first coffee has been made
as described your issue is the anti-vac valve is sticking in the up position when you turn the machine off at the end of the day
this means when you turn the machine on the next morning the boiler is at ambient temperature but there is a vacuum in the boiler
as a result the boiler does not reach the correct operating temperature until, most likely, the steam wand is opened for the first time that day
my suggestion is that you start by either taking the anti-vac valve off and cleaning it, or in the event that the o-ring in the anti-vac valve has become hard and brittle with heat over the years that you replace the valve
i think a 17mm spanner is what you will need off the top of my head
you should not need a thread sealant
be sure to use a hammer - i am happy to provide guidance via FaceTime or WhatsApp
kind regards
reiss.
Best wishes,
Matt