This forum is now read-only


To login to the new support channel and community forums, go to the Support Portal

BWT Water Filter Pitcher + BestCup?

Just got a BWT Water Filter Pitcher to get the mentioned benefits of having Mg in the water. But as I am filling the tank I am now wondering if the BestCup filter in the tank will be filtering that Mg out? Meaning, is it a good or bad idea to use both filters? Thanks.

Comments

  • It's a good idea to measure what you can of your tap water and the filtered water out of the BWT jug so you can evaluate the result after a while.

    I would not worry about Mg

    Unless your tap water is very 'hard' you might want to take out the tank filter to help make sure that the water has no extra threshold to enter the system. If the reservoir runs dry and the filter then gets air in it, it might suck air into the system where you do not need it.
  • i think you should remove the BWT filter that we supplied with the machine out of the water tank

    if nothing else it becomes an unnecessary duplication of costs

    frans is absolutely correct that you need to obtain a method to measure exactly how hard your water is - if for example it is super hard you will find the BWT filter in your water jug will be exhausted quickly in terms of its ability to soften your water, especially if you have other people in your household using it too and putting an unknown volume of water through the jug for treatment

    they might provide time lines for how frequently a filter needs to be replaced, but this is a fairly useless measure - you really need to know how many litres your filter can soften to a sufficiently soft level for a given level of hardness pre treatment

    we do sell a water hardness test kit if that is of interest

    kind regards

    reiss.
  • Speaking about the hardness test kit, I regularly use it to measure our tap water (8 drops, about 160ppm) and the filtered water
    from the group (2 drops, about 40ppm) to monitor the effectiveness of the filter in the tank and when to replace it.

    I used to get some water from the group, let it cool for a while and then measuring.
    But then I wondered if the heating/cooling of the water can influence the hardness.

    When taking water from a cold machine, the result was 3 drops (so approx. 60ppm)

    Should I be measuring unheated water, or is that normal measurement fluctuation? (I previously repeated some measurements
    of our tap water and did not get differences in drop counts, it's eight drops every time)

    Or did the filter just then give up on me? It was about 5 weeks in use at that time, so I was expecting it to run out?

    Can someone give some more informed thoughts about this?
  • In my experience, the ppm value of water that has been through the boiler / heat exchanger / brew group can vary a lot and unless you have a way to test for a wider variety of specific particles it's mostly guesswork.

    If you want to test the effectiveness of the in-tank filter, I think it's best to take out the tank/reservoir, fill it up and tap some water from it (having it stand on a table top with the spout sticking out). Then you can compare the values of tap water / water out of that reservoir.

    And it's probably more optimal to use a BTW water jug to fill the reservoir, or an inline water filter.
  • what frans is saying is that when the filtered water enters the boiler the hardness value will drop further as some precipitation occurs, and that if you dont draw much water off the system for a while whilst the system is pressurised precipitation will continue and so the observed value of hardness will continue to fall and present you with an artificially low value relative to the hardness of the water entering the system from the bottom of the water tank

    when i was using the BWT tank filter i measured the hardness out of the bottom of the water tank each week

    when it rose to 5 drops of reagent using the londinium water hardness test kit (reaction with 1 drop = 1 grain per gallon (1gpg) = 17.1ppm or mg/L x 5 drops = 85.5ppm) i would change the filter

    it is also prudent to run the test 3 times to ensure you dont get hit with an outlier and base your decisions on that result

    in this way you are ensuring you are changing the filter based on the typical volume of water that you would put through the system in a given time interval - i.e. this time interval is going to vary depending on how hard the water is pre-treatment and how much water you pull through the filter

    in central london for our usage this was every 3 weeks, so please be aware that if you have hard water and pull quite a bit of water through your machine that you will be replacing these little in-tank filters frequently

    reiss.
  • For boiler water I understand the variability. That is why I draw the water for testing directly from the group, after flushing the HX so that the water is fresh from the tank.

    However, I did not know one can remove the watertank. I assumed there were too many connections (outlet + low-water sensor)
    that have to stay watertight and dry too make that an easy job. Until now I just cleaned the tank in situ as best as I could!

    How do you remove the tank exactly? How do you empty it before removal?

    Is there a manual or support page with this sort of things? Maybe I missed more of such important facts about my LR...
  • on the 'long' sides of the rectangle that is the shape of the water box when viewed from above place thumbs on the inside of the tank and push the first two fingers of each hand down the outside of the water box, forcing it to bend inwards from the metal water box carrier and pull upwards with vigour and it will pop out.

    it won't break so dont be afraid to grip very firmly on both sides of the box between fingers and thumbs in both hands and pull upwards strongly.

    if you do it when the tank is almost full you can expect a bit of water to slop out, but half full or less and you should be fine.
  • I don't have a testing kit but I am in New York City which I know does not have hard water. Since the BestCup in the tank is easier to use, my question now is whether there is a significant enough difference with the BWT pitcher to be worth the extra trouble?
  • According to the document at
    http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/pdf/wsstate16.pdf
    the hardness is about 300 mg/litre or grains/gallon

    If you have a choice to buy a series of the little in-tank filters or the jug with its replacement cartridges, my guess is the jug is more cost effective and it's also easier to monitor the effectiveness, assuming you will buy a test kit.
  • that would be my expectation too.
  • Hello everybody,

    After years of mixing my hard tap water with mineral water (tap water has a water hardness of 11 dH), I am now interested in the Bestcup btw m filter that you can buy here in the shop. On the homepage of BWT, however, I find the following statement in the product description:

    "Materials of the coffee machine: Decarbonated water contains, due to the process, free carbonic acid." After the filter, no installations made of copper or with nickel or zinc coating should be used. "

    now I am confused ... my L1 is indeed only copper ...?

    I'm a bit cautious, can I use the Bestcup with the L1 or not? Should the filter be constantly under water? Also, it says somewhere in the product description the filter should be used with water that is not warmer than 25 degrees - but when my L1 runs it takes in tank temperatures around 35 degrees ...

    I hope someone can dispel my concerns about the Best Cup, because it would be very convenient. On table filter, I have no desire because you always have to temporarily store in the refrigerator.

    Best regards, Thomas
  • hi thomas

    the key word in the sentence you have quoted is 'coating', where perhaps if it had been translated more carefully they would have used the word 'electroplating'

    it is a reference to the cheap and cheerful entry level machines that have plated costings over the internal water ways of cheap aluminium pipes. once the coating is lost the aluminium pipes are dissolved away in no time and you need a new machine and BWT are simply protecting themselves against such claims; the pipes in your L1 that are copper are solid copper and will not be dissolved away by the BWT filter

    BWT are one of the largest water filter manufacturers in the world, and we are using a filter that they have specifically designed and sold to be used in espresso machines; it is absolutely fine

    If you personally have doubts then by all means use some other method for your water treatment

    I dont mind telling you that if you over soften any water, for example with the use of pure reverse osmosis water or any other method, the water becomes acidic at boiler operating temperatures and will slowly dissolve the boiler

    this does not constitute a health hazard as copper is not toxic to the body if passing through as a dissolved metal, but you would need a new boiler after a good number of years as it would dissolve away to the point where it would start to develop pin-prick leaks

    for this reason moderation is important, keeping the water not too soft and not too hard; somewhere in the middle is good

    if you buy a machine with a stainless boiler you get another set of water chemistry problems, not least of all that it is a lot thinner and suffers from metal fatigue a lot faster than copper. it is also vulnerable to the hard chromium, which is the only thing that gives stainless steel its corrosion resistance, being squeezed out/migrated in areas where the boiler is stamped for fittings to be mounted on the boiler and this can result in the chromium content falling below 12% and guess what; you have a stainless steel boiler that starts to corrode like a mild steel one to the point where it leaks in the areas of the boiler where it has been stamped. it was this very thing that lead to Faema going out of business; warranty claims on stainless steel boilers and the issue has arisen with other manufacturers of stainless boilers since then as the chromium level in the stainless alloy needs to be tightly controlled both during the manufacture of the sheet metal and subsequently during and stamping processes during the manufacture of the boiler

    copper is the perfect metal for boiler manufacture and if you google it you will see that since roman times we have known that is has anti bacterial properties, it is malleable, and responds better than any other metal to the repeated expansion and contraction cycle that arises from a boiler heating and cooling many thousands of times in its working life

    copper is a magic metal and we'll be sticking with it

    kind regards

    reiss.
  • I use the BWT Bestmax in line filter, and on the road with my espresso machine I use the BWT Magnesium Mineralizer jug & filters.

    http://kostverlorenvaart.blogspot.nl/2015/02/getting-bestmax-premium-water-filter.html

    Hope that helps.

    Do test your water before / after.
  • thank you very much for your answers
  • Hello

    short question - is this piece https://londiniumespresso.com/store/espresso-machine-parts/connecting-sleeve-for-londinium-in-tank-water-softening-and-filtration-cartridge for the tank also made for the L1? - or just for the LR? Can the pump still suck water? I ask because the LR yes otherwise sucks the water.

    Thank you for the answers
  • hi thomas
    i am not sure that i understand you completely, but the item you refer to was fitted from day one in both the L1(2012-2016) and the LR
    does that answer your question?
    kind regards
    reiss.
  • Hi Reiss,

    yes that was my question, thanks for answering. I just bought an adapter for my L1, in your shop, found no in Germany. Greetings Thomas
Sign In or Register to comment.