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Group head screen

Is there a trick to installing the group head screen? I just put the new gasket and screen in and man did I have a time of it!!! I did it with the machine off. Should I have done it with it on (hot). Im a strong guy and I had to get the hammer out. Gezz of man... haha
Thanks

Comments

  • Not sure what you tried first.

    I push the screen and the rubber ring in first, with my fingers, after checking that the rubber ring is the correct side up. The sharp inner edge of that ring should face down. Does not take any power.

    Then I take a portafilter *without* a filter basket and lock that in firmly. Easy. Then the same with a filter basket. Done.
  • Hammer? Uh-oh.

    Frans's description is perfect. Should take less than 30 seconds.
  • Definitely do it with the machine cold! I took the screen/gasket off when I put the custom seals on, and it went back on very easily. I think Reiss has a video showing how it's done, but it is pretty similar to other machines I have had.
    Rob
  • I did notice that the gasket had two different sides. It just took a lot to get the gasket up to seal. Hammer- yup at one time with a piece of wood to try and get the basket up.. that didnt work. I then had to get a screwdriver and push the gasket up into where it belongs. I never had this problem with the old one as I have had that off and on a dozen times.
    Any how its all back and working.
    Thanks
  • The beveled edge goes into the group, and as Frans described, the easiest way is using the portafilter to apply even, steady pressure. If you do it that way, there is no way you can get in any trouble. By doing it first with the basket removed, it allows the pf to "catch" earlier. Once it has started, you can remove and insert a basket, then finish the job.

    Glad you managed it regardless of the technique!
  • My guess is that the gasket is beveled to hold the screen in place which is why it faces down. We have a couple discrepancies here. Also I believe we are talking portifilter gasket swap and not lever gasket swap.

    Great idea to remove the basket and let the portifilter do all the work. That way it's tight and nice and even.

    God I love the support group with these machines. Most high end machines you can't even communicate with a person that speaks English. Most post schematics so they are not hard to figure out anyways.
  • Actually, the bevel goes "up" and is there to facilitate the gasket's entry into the group. Think in terms of it being a wedge.
  • I put the gasket in place on the shower screen, set it on top of the portafilter with basket, insert it, apply upwards pressure, and then turn and lock in the portafilter to set it firmly in place. I find that it is a bit easier to install when the machine is still warm. It is fairly easy and takes a lot less muscle than machines I have had that use the larger and less pliable E61 gaskets.

    Rocky
  • I compared the old gasket with the new and there was NO taper in the new ones. I'm sure that is why it caused me so much grief. Anyone else have the newer gaskets? Well I am attempting to add a photo from my iPad to no avail...
    Thanks

    image
    image
  • I don't see the bevel and it looks much thicker too. Could you have possibly recieved a piston seal? Does the portifilter go in with no effort? I once attempted to change my portifilter seal in my Vivaldi. The older seal was so old that half of it melted and I didn't notice that it was in there. Once I put the new one in, I could not get the portifilter in. I figured it out and took the melted one out piece by piece.

    By the way... how's the coffee since you replaced it?
  • Mike, I believe I ordered the correct ones? I got a new screen head and the 5 portafilter to group seals. Cant notice much difference as the old screen head really wasn't that bad.
    Thanks
  • I received some new shower screen gaskets last week, and under magnification both faces have the same slight bevel on the OD and ID. One face is shiny and one is dull. I do not know if there is a suggested orientation, but I tried it both ways and either way works fine.

    Rocky
  • On mine I have a small bevel on the inside top and outside bottom surfaces.

    I had a lot more trouble installing my new IMS 35 screen than I’ve had with any other screens. Initially the PF would only go on without a basket, but it’s good now after about a month.

    Initially I left the PF on at moderate tightness for several days to bed everything in, and now it tightens correctly at about the 90 deg position.

    I find the IMS 35 screen is a big improvement.
  • Gene Flynn post=12187 wrote: I compared the old gasket with the new and there was NO taper in the new ones. I'm sure that is why it caused me so much grief. Anyone else have the newer gaskets? Well I am attempting to add a photo from my iPad to no avail...
    Thanks

    image
    image

    hi gene

    the old seal shown in your post is the same as the new one - it is not tapered - the squidgy flange of material bulging out in the old seal is simply the portion of the seal that was hanging down out of the seal groove, and it is quite normal for this to occur

    45 degree bevel side of the seal goes up

    take basket out of PF handle and then use PF handle to drive the seal into the seal groove

    you can wipe a thin film of loxeal no.4 grease on the top edge of the PF if you are concerned about it damaging the seal

    once you have gone as far as you can without the basket in the PF handle, add the basket back in and repeat

    video on this in the permanent file, part of the changing the piston seals post

    best

    reiss.
  • Gene Flynn post=12189 wrote: Mike, I believe I ordered the correct ones? I got a new screen head and the 5 portafilter to group seals. Cant notice much difference as the old screen head really wasn't that bad.
    Thanks

    Did you go with the IMI screen? Reiss recommended it to me. Being a chef for 30 years, I've learned that it's not the tools, it's the experience. Only the people with the most exquisite taste can probably distinguish the difference. To me, it's either a sink shot or a drinkable shot, and I can't tell much difference between the keepers. I rarely drink a shot on its own. Usually only when trying different brands of beans I will compare shots. 99% are 2:1 microfoam to 30g espresso. With my limited experience I haven't developed the palette to know when something is off. Most of my lattes taste damn good to me and better than anything I can get in 300 sq miles. I also have a Vivaldi2 which is considered a low to midgrade machine. Surely my palette will expand once the L1 arrives.
  • Reiss Gunson wrote:
    45 degree bevel side of the seal goes up
    Just to make sure, this is how it should be placed in the group?

    image
  • hi pawel

    that is a seal that has already been used with the compression of the portion of the seal that has been in the seal groove clearly visible, so as you have shown it in the image above is the way it should go into the group

    note that there is a 45 degree bevel on the bottom edge of this seal also, so if it was new you could put it in either way

    kind regards

    reiss.
  • Thank you Reiss.
    All clear!

    Does the visible compression means the seal should be replaced in the near future (9 months of usage now)?
  • hi pawel

    no, it just means its been under compression - it would probably look like that after just one month

    replace the group seal when it leaks

    kind regards

    reiss.
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