Uneven flow from double-spouted portafilter

Matthew Hoffman

I have a new Londinium double-spouted pf, which I obtained in order to split shots for guests. I've peviously used only the bottomless pf. What I find is that the pour begins on one side (the left spout, facing the machine) and only begins on the other side after nearly 10 grams have flowed from first spout.

I checked the the bottom of the group with a spirit level, and it is perfectly level. I usually get centre-flow shots from the bottomless pf, after drips from all parts of the basket.

Is there anything I can do to address this situation? Obviously I'd like to offer my guests espresso shots of reasonably equivalent volume.

Matt

Frans Goddijn

You specify what portafilter you use, but it's important to know what filter you use. The same as you use in the naked?

In my experience, making two espressos is easiest when I just make one twice instead of trying to make two at once. I had two-spouted portafilters but had them drilled out to be bottomless.

Reiss Gunson

hi matthew

i would start by removing the basket and taking a close look at the exit hole in the bottom of the PF - are there any loose bits of metal on one 'side' of the exit hole, or other rough finish/issue with the chrome?

because of the way in which it is manufactured the issue is unlikely to be at that point, but it is worth checking

the most likely point will be in the centre of the splitter where the coffee first drops down into - is the entry to the left spout in some way more restrictive than into the right spout? (or vice versa)

sometimes a stiff pipe cleaner or similar can be enough to dislodge a small loose obstruction

if you can't remedy it i'll send you another

reiss.

Matthew Hoffman

Yes, same filter, a 15g VST, with 14.5g of coffee.
Matt

Matthew Hoffman

Reiss,

Your first thought was right. As the attached image shows, there are two nicks by the exit hole (at 90º, on the side of the offending spout). Besides explaining why the flow is initially interrupted on that side, that also explains why the flow from that spout is slower and has a twisting appearance which I don't observe coming from the other spout.

If you could supply a replacement, I could box up the one I have and either give it to the DHL delivery man or post it myself to Francino.

Thanks,
Matt

Reiss Gunson

Dear Matthew

if you can please post it back to;

LONDINIUM ESPRESSO
Hayley Bates
Unit 5-7, Birch Road East
Birmingham
West Midlands
B6 7DA
ENGLAND


I will send out a replacement on DHL when we receive the defective item

While i think of it i will include an anti-vac valve for you as it sounds as though yours is due for replacement

I apologise for the inconvenience

Kind regards

Reiss.

Matthew Hoffman

Thanks very much, Reiss. I'll send the pf back today.
Best wishes,
Matt
PS It's nice to read in your blog of the surge in orders for the L1. That's the first good news I've heard about Brexit since the referendum

Matthew Hoffman

I've had the replacement pf for about a week and it is working fine. Either the shots start at the same time from both spouts or one is a gram or two after the other. However, as the side that starts first follows no clear pattern, I put it down to my puck preparation. I expect to see an improvement when my LevTamp from KafaTek arrives. This guarantees a level tamp.

I also received a replacement anti-vac valve in the same package. While I was waiting, I observed the anti-vac valve in action. It rises after two or three minutes from switch on, and falls back in place after the boiler is switched off and cools down. There are no visible leaks. I suppose there could be a pinhole leak, though. I measured the time it takes the group to heat up sufficiently from room temperature. It's a little over two hours, with ambient temperature 20C.

Matt

Reiss Gunson

when the anti-vac fails it doesnt usually mean it is leaking; it usually means it is sticking in the 'up' (closed) position after the machine has been switched off

this means next time the machine is turned on the system no longer has an anti-vac valve and so there is a good chance of false pressure in the system, which manifests itself as the pressure switch over-reading the pressure in the system and as a result the system runs cooler than it should

if false pressure is an issue, when the steam wand is opened for the first time after the machine has heated up the pressure will drop to almost zero, or at least very low like 0.3 bar or similar

if you suspect your anti-vac switch is malfunctioning you can try starting your machine from cold with the steam wand toggle locked open until steam starts to be dispensed from the end of the wand

sometimes you can rescue a sticking anti-vac valve simply by taking it off the boiler, taking it apart, and then cleaning it in limescale remover, but given that it is a lot value part and the o-ring will often be getting hard it is probably false economy - if you are going to the effort of taking it off you probably might as well replace, but a clean will often keep the machine in service until your replacement parts arrive

best

reiss.