This forum is now read-only
To login to the new support channel and community forums, go to the Support Portal
Steam flow/pressure
I'm sure I was getting far better milk texture far more easily when I first got my 2-hole tip last year but I've been really struggling with it and had assumed it was blocked (see post about 6 weeks ago). After soaking, pushing pins and needles through and all the rest of it with no change I decided to buy a new 2-hole tip. It’s exactly the same so I went back to the original 4-hole tip and again – the same inconsistent flow of steam. I'm now wondering if I have a steam pressure issue. Please view video and contribute if you can. It’s possible that’s just what it looks like or maybe just a lack of technique on my part.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3u1qa-cTok4dmRubnBRa3dkTmc
Thanks
Al
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3u1qa-cTok4dmRubnBRa3dkTmc
Thanks
Al
Comments
http://kostverlorenvaart.blogspot.nl/2016/01/microfoam-made-easy.html
It could also be the milk you use. Is it the same milk as when you had more success? Sometimes with a change of season / diet the cows produce a slightly different type of milk. Unlikely but possible explanation.
if i was ever to experience that (i haven't), keep in mind that as long as you have 1.3 bar or whatever in the boiler, it can only be a simple matter of obstruction
with that in mind i would start by taking the tip off and just run an open pipe and check that you have plentiful, unrestricted steam coming out of the end of the steam wand. if you do, the tip is obstructed
if the steam flow from the open pipe seems restricted then you need to take the wand nut off and see what the steam flow looks like at that joint
if the valve is the issue, and i'll be most surprised if it is, the symptom will be the spring in the valve not driving the plunger properly. but as long as the spring is driving the plunger back and locking the toggle into the central closed position promptly i think it unlikely that the valve is the issue
kind regards
reiss.
yes, that's right, the thin nut is the locking nut and so you need to wind it upwards (i.e. in the opposite direction), and probably use a second set spanner to stop the large stainless nut trying to turn with the locking nut
i'll be intrigued to hear what the cause is as I've not heard of such an issue before
do feel free to FaceTime or Skype me if you wish, I'm usually around
kind regards
reiss.
i.e. i would like to see how much free thread is showing above the lock nut
Anyway, it's clear that it's sitting in the normal position on the thread so nothing obviously amiss there
Perhaps an exploded view of the bits you find inside the nut when you take it off?
Reiss
Attached files
Attached files
Yes, that's right
I can't imagine for a moment why you won't get a constant blast of steam, but we're about to find out I guess
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B3u1qa-cTok4dmRubnBRa3dkTmc
im not seeing any video in google docs
can you please post it to youtube or vimeo
then all you need to do is click reply in this forum thread, click on the filmstrip icon, click on 'video settings', the click Vimeo or Youtube from the dropbox list of providers, then type in the Vimeo or Youtube ID which you will find in the Vimeo or Youtube url when you are watching your video on either of those websites - simply copy and paste the ID which is the alpha-numeric string at the end of the url & simply click 'Submit' and its all done!
reiss.
i think the source of the confusion is you are seeing less water vapour (steam condensing) the longer you have it on for (NB: steam is invisible, water vapour is visible)
this is because the body of the valve has been heated up by the steam passing through it and is no longer having a significant cooling effect on the steam
as a result of it exiting the valve at a higher temperature after it has been escaping for a while there is less water vapour (which is visible), which creates the impression that there is no steam
but the steam is there, it is just invisible (which is one reason why steam so dangerous)
if you don't believe me stick your finger in the way momentarily when you think there is no steam and tell me I'm wrong
just kidding! don't, you will receive a first class steam burn!!!
trust me, the steam is there
perhaps a better way to illustrate the point would be if you stuck a sauce pan of cold water on the drip tray and stuck the steam wand in it
then you would be able to observe from the continuous bubbling from the holes in the tip that the steam is indeed continuous and not sporadic
hope this explains it; i really don't think you have an issue, as far as i can see
kind regards
reiss.
(
stick the steam wand back together and stick it in a saucepan of water
then open the valve, perhaps not fully (it might be too violent to observe easily) and watch a continuous stream of bubbles emit from each of the four holes in the tip
I'm really not trying to fob you off here; the good hot stuff that you need to texture your milk is steam and it is invisible
the cloud like stuff that you can see is water vapour and is at a lower temperature and not what you want for texturing your milk
for this reason you should always open the steam wand valve and let the condensate and then the water vapour blow out, until the invisible steam arrives
then quickly close the valve, put the tip in the milk, and open it again before the wand goes cool and fills up with condensate again (which is why no -burn steam wands suck - you have to blow them clear for half a day before the condensate and water vapour blows out)
i am by no means saying this is the only way, but it is a way, and many people who have struggled to produce anything resembling velvet microfoam previously have watched this video, tried again and had their eureka moment
a common mistake it to take far too long on the stretching phase - 5 seconds should be enough for say 200mL of milk assuming you have blasted out all the condensate and water vapour before commencing
if you run this initial stretching phase for too long the milk will lose its natural sweet creaminess and taste 'papery'
success with texturing milk is a confidence thing; its a bit like riding a bike though, once you get the hang of it you will be away, refining your technique with additional practice, but never really forgetting how do it
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]C5XZOa_V6CQ
Your help is appreciated as ever. I think it's a much simpler issue - since I moved to pulling single shots with 'the single' basket a couple of months ago I've really enjoyed the quality of what I'm getting in the cup BUT it is quite a different thing to pulling doubles. I'm no expert obviously and am almost exclusively self-taught in that I've had very little 'hands-on' tuition that's truly advanced my technique/knowledge (thank god for coffee forums and Youtube).
My feeling is it's far harder to pull a consistently good shot with a small dose. Any slight change in grind or inconsistency in tamping is reflected in the cup to a greater extent. In addition, I'm using a maximum of maybe 150ml of milk so that's trickier to get right too which is why if a want a top notch texture I know I can get it by using more milk than I need but still don't have the control I'd like working with a 250ml or 300ml pitcher.
Next step may be to move to a new tamper and 'true single' basket and see how hard that is :S
1. what grinder?
2. what coffee? (light/dark/medium, any robusta if a blend? age of roast)
3. single dosing or pile of beans in the hopper?
4. what size is the tamper you are currently using?
the less milk you use the less time you will have to respond, and therefore the harder your life will be
i would strenuously advise against using less than 150mL of milk and preferably about 180mL unless you have masochist tendencies
as you become more proficient then you can slowly reduce the volume
you don't want 150mL lying like a puddle in the bottom of a 750mL pitcher!
you would want about a 300mL pitcher for 150mL of milk, but i willing defer to others who are far more proficient than i when it comes to milk
also, i use to think (mistakenly) that i nice heavy gauge of stainless is what you want, but experience has taught me that a cheap and nasty thin gauge is actually probably better
in an ideal world i think you would use a copper pitcher for its very high thermal conductivity, but let us know if you stumble across a source as i would be keen to buy some
reiss.
2. coffee- been using Santa Maria de Lourdes, Nicaragua from The Foundry which is a medium roast 'Red Honey process'. I am now two cups away from finishing this and have had good results over the last 3 or 4 kilos. Tomorrow I'm going to move onto a new been for me from the same roaster; Gashonga Lot 6 - Rwanda. I have no understanding whatsoever of the component parts in a blend but I'm guessing this isn't a blend.....
3. The hopper easily holds a kilo so until the end of the batch I have pretty consistent weight there
4. the tamper was sold as 58.4 but there is no size stated so I have no way of really knowing. It fits a VST double basket perfectly but is slightly small for the single basket
I can try using 180ml but a lot is wasted on a single shot flat white but I suppose it's incentive to improve
1. grinder = fine
2. foundry roast great coffee = fine
3. not single dosing = great!
4. what brand of tamper is it as we might be able to determine
i do recommend trying the little stir of the coffee like frans does - it is worth a try at least - if it makes no significant difference then you can discard it
if you haven't done so already watch the videos frans did for each of our coffees - i think your issues are large related to preparation
also, be sure that you are grinding fine enough and using a sufficient pre-infusion - what are you shot weight/run times like?
in the grand scheme of things milk isn't that expensive: it is far cheaper than paying for tuition and it will ensure than you build your confidence, which is the trick to it
The Torr Tamper was bought second hand - I got 2 bases (one flat and one convex) and a nice Walnut handle. I've been using the convex base. I'll try stirring the dose with a toothpick before tamping.....
I'll check out the videos - didn't know of their existence.
I'm using 9.5 gram dose into 12 in something like 14-17 secs. with a PI of about 7 secs. I do play with these parameters but it's judged purely on taste obviously as any recipes quoted like on the Foundry site are always for double shots so not much use.
I've just measured it up for you now and I'm doing about 150mL of milk in a 350mL Motta or Rattleware jug, whichever i find first
the flat base is my personal preference, but others prefer convex
your shot times may be a little too fast - try a 20 second shot time and see what you think
if your distribution of the grounds in the basket is poor you will be grinding finer than you need to in order to stop drips during pre-infusion
Many thanks