Six months have gone smoothly and I’ve really been enjoying the coffee a lot. However I’m now getting a hissing sound from where the heating element is attached. I can feel the steam if I put my finger where the arrow is in the picture. How can I get this fixed?
that is disappointing as the issue has not been reported before
there are two options, (1) you can try applying a suitable sealant over the join when the machine is cold, or (2) i send you a new element gasket and you remove the element and replace the gasket.
if you want to go with option (2) you will need to obtain a 38mm socket
let me know how you want to proceed and i can get the element gasket out to you today if you wish
yes, do not torque up the fitting by attaching a wrench or socket and simply pulling on it for all you are worth
copper is the ideal metal for boilers (many people think it is stainless, but it is not) however it is soft, and if you subject it to excessive force you will have no trouble in deforming the boiler
so instead fit the 38mm socket to the element (having first disconnected all the wires hooked onto it obviously) and then fit a striking bar to the end of the socket (as shown in that link you have provided to my blog post) so you can then hit the striking bar with a hammer - start with taps and get progressively harder until the feel the element nut begin to turn
once it begins to turn you will probably be able to grip the striking bar with your hand and turn it out by hand
then once you have the element out it is important to clean off all traces of the old element gasket so you have a clean flat surface for the new gasket to seal against - something like a wooden clothes peg is preferable to a screwdriver for this task as again, the copper is soft and will gouge easily
once that is done you can peel the backing paper off the gasket to expose the adhesive backing and then stick the gasket in place and then screw the element back in. it is a metal to metal join - no thread sealant should be required
once the element comes up snug on the thread, again, instead of torquing it up use say 3 strikes with the hammer on the striking bar to drive it home. you will feel it turn on the first strike, turn less on the second, and then probably come to a hard stop on the third strike - be mindful of this progression. if it comes up hard on the second strike don't apply a third strike. if it still turns quite easily on the third strike consider a fourth strike
you'll be fine, but just go gently and remember that it is all copper, not steel. strike, strike, strike is what is required rather than a big pull on the end of a wrench
i am more than happy to provide oversight via FaceTime or Skype
Reiss Gunson post=10143 wrote: once that is done you can peel the backing paper off the gasket to expose the adhesive backing and then stick the gasket in place and then screw the element back in.
On which side is the backing paper; black or green? Neither side seems to peel off.
apologies, i was there yesterday and i forgot to check for you
so i have just driven there now and assuming your gasket is the same as the one i have photographed above (both sides of the same gasket), i was incorrect
this particular gasket does not have an adhesive side to it - it is the same material as the gasket that the group is mounted on
- Drained the boiler and let the machine cool down - Unplugged the machine, marked the wires hooked to the element and disconnected them - Removed the element with socket and hammer per your instructions - Took off the old gasket and with a cloth wiped the surfaces - Put the gasket in place, reattached the element (with socket and hammer) and reconnected the wires
Comments
thank you for posting
that is disappointing as the issue has not been reported before
there are two options, (1) you can try applying a suitable sealant over the join when the machine is cold, or (2) i send you a new element gasket and you remove the element and replace the gasket.
if you want to go with option (2) you will need to obtain a 38mm socket
let me know how you want to proceed and i can get the element gasket out to you today if you wish
kind regards
reiss.
I'll go with option (2).
Thanks,
Andreas
yes its the only way to do a proper job
i plan to despatch using the same contact details that you provided for your machine purchase
please email or DM me if you would like to change any of these details
kind regards
reiss.
I searched the site for instructions on replacing the element and only found a blog post about the tools (https://londiniumespresso.com/~londes/blog/tools-for-removing-the-element-on-a-londinium-i). It mentioned that there are some tricks I should know of before I start. What are they?
Br,
Andreas
yes, do not torque up the fitting by attaching a wrench or socket and simply pulling on it for all you are worth
copper is the ideal metal for boilers (many people think it is stainless, but it is not) however it is soft, and if you subject it to excessive force you will have no trouble in deforming the boiler
so instead fit the 38mm socket to the element (having first disconnected all the wires hooked onto it obviously) and then fit a striking bar to the end of the socket (as shown in that link you have provided to my blog post) so you can then hit the striking bar with a hammer - start with taps and get progressively harder until the feel the element nut begin to turn
once it begins to turn you will probably be able to grip the striking bar with your hand and turn it out by hand
then once you have the element out it is important to clean off all traces of the old element gasket so you have a clean flat surface for the new gasket to seal against - something like a wooden clothes peg is preferable to a screwdriver for this task as again, the copper is soft and will gouge easily
once that is done you can peel the backing paper off the gasket to expose the adhesive backing and then stick the gasket in place and then screw the element back in. it is a metal to metal join - no thread sealant should be required
once the element comes up snug on the thread, again, instead of torquing it up use say 3 strikes with the hammer on the striking bar to drive it home. you will feel it turn on the first strike, turn less on the second, and then probably come to a hard stop on the third strike - be mindful of this progression. if it comes up hard on the second strike don't apply a third strike. if it still turns quite easily on the third strike consider a fourth strike
you'll be fine, but just go gently and remember that it is all copper, not steel. strike, strike, strike is what is required rather than a big pull on the end of a wrench
i am more than happy to provide oversight via FaceTime or Skype
best
reiss.
On which side is the backing paper; black or green? Neither side seems to peel off.
-Andreas
i'll need to check for you at the workshop - i don't have one at home, but it will feel like waxy paper
I had another go at it but couldn't figure on which side the backing paper is. Have you had time to visit your workshop?
Br,
Andreas
hi Andreas
apologies, i was there yesterday and i forgot to check for you
so i have just driven there now and assuming your gasket is the same as the one i have photographed above (both sides of the same gasket), i was incorrect
this particular gasket does not have an adhesive side to it - it is the same material as the gasket that the group is mounted on
apologies for delaying your repair unnecessarily
reiss.
No worries about the delay. The gasket is the same. Everything works fine again; no hissing.
Thanks again!
Andreas
easy, right?
reiss.
Yes very easy.
- Drained the boiler and let the machine cool down
- Unplugged the machine, marked the wires hooked to the element and disconnected them
- Removed the element with socket and hammer per your instructions
- Took off the old gasket and with a cloth wiped the surfaces
- Put the gasket in place, reattached the element (with socket and hammer) and reconnected the wires
Br,
Andreas