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GFCI tripping
I installed the digital preinfusion kit about 6 weeks ago with no issues. Today my Londinium R has started tripping my GFCI outlet within a few seconds of being turned on. The white light turns on right away but it trips the GFCI before the red light turns on. I looked inside and saw no loose wires or moisture. Otherwise I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing the problem.
I have tried running other appliances on the GFCI outlet with no issues, so I'm pretty sure the problem is inside the LR.
I have tried running other appliances on the GFCI outlet with no issues, so I'm pretty sure the problem is inside the LR.
Comments
thanks for posting. things that have caused this in the past are (i) the Mater pressure switch (which you no longer have) and (ii) cracked or chipped ceramic insulators around the immersion element resulting in current leakage, although you report that it is tripping before the red light illuminates, but not by much im guessing?
perhaps start by sending me some well lit images of the insulators on the exposed end of your immersion element?
kind regards
reiss.
I also plugged the machine into a different outlet, and the circuit breaker immediately tripped when I turned it on.
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perhaps lift the lid on the Sirai pressure switch and if the screws in the middle contact pair were not removed at the factory check that one of them has not rattled loose and dropped into the body of the switch as i have seen that happen before; it will have spot welded itself in place if that is the cause
***be sure to have unplugged the machine from the electrical supply before taking the lid off the Siari as this is switching the full current drawn by the element***
are the screws still secure in the middle pair of terminals, or has one of them fallen out?
reiss.
is the earth wire (yellow & green) still securely terminated to the chassis?
There is a teal cord that is securely attached to the chassis, next to the grounding symbol.
if it were me i would look very closely for a water leak or a loose wire
are all the wires on the immersion element secure and also all the wires connecting to the Sirai pressure switch and also the wires connecting to the back of the ON/OFF toggle switch
the first place i would look is where the pump joins the pump motor, and as a long shot where the wires enter the plug in the top of the pressure transducer
are all the connections you made when installing the pressure transducer secure? look to the F1 and F2 Gicar connections and the red orange and blue wires screwed into the brown nylon terminal connector
kind regards
reiss.
There's not a hint of moisture anywhere.
I disconnected the pump motor and that did not stop it from tripping the circuit breaker (instantly).
After that, I reconnected the pump motor and disconnected the immersion element instead. When I did that the machine was able to power on for about 5 seconds before tripping the circuit breaker.
I also tried disconnecting the power cord from the on/off switch. The circuit breaker doesn't trip, so I doubt that the problem is in that cord.
I've ordered a multimeter. I haven't used one since college but maybe that will help with the diagnosis.
so are you saying that as a result of testing with a multi meter that you have confirmed that there is continuity in the immersion element, however there is current leakage from the immersion element to the boiler, which is causing your GFCI to trip?
kind regards
reiss.
in other words there must be a crack in one of the ceramic insulators for the current leakage to occur, and for that to be the case i would expect one of the terminals has been bent off axis, resulting in the ceramic insulating sleeve cracking
kind regards
reiss.
they are also available as a shallow version but that will not clear the element terminals; the deep version will
be sure to use a breaker bar, not a ratchet, and strike the breaker bar with a hammer to shock it free as shown here; https://londiniumespresso.com/forum/permanent-file/715-changing-the-immersion-element
perhaps drop me an email to confirm that you want me to send the element and gasket to the same address as we sent your machine to
kind regards
reiss.
The element has arrived. While trying to get the socket onto the old element, I've found that the thick black power cord gets in the way and there's no way to bend it enough to make enough space. I'd like to simply remove it but there is a black part that holds it in place on the chassis. Is there a good way to remove it? Ideally without destroying it?
im not saying you are wrong, but it will be the first machine in the history of londinium where the power cord has needed to be removed to change the heating element; we even put that recess in the frame specifically to accommodate the element change
when your 38mm socket arrives get physical with it and use the socket to simply push the power cord out of your way; most like to the left, towards the front panel i would expect. it will move. the socket has rounded edges and will not cut or damage the cable
im happy to assist via FaceTime or whatsapp
you really dont want to have to remove the cable gland, its a real pain (you ideally need a cable gland tool) and to the best of my knowledge no one has ever needed to
kind regards
reiss.