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Removing fittings from boiler

I need to remove some pipes in order to gain access to tne vacuum breaker and savety valves. If I take out ones that enter the boiler low down, would water come gushing out?



  • hi matt

    you do not need to remove any pipes to get to the items you mention
    it is close, i agree, but there is enough room to get the job done
    i will look for an image for you right now to show you what i mean

    one moment

  • its even true on an LR where there is probably slightly less space than on your machine:



  • all you need is a 17mm set spanner (wrench) and a hammer with a head weight of about 12oz (340g)

    Attached files

  • if you are replacing both the anti-vac and the safety valve remove the anti vac first, then remove the safety valve, then fit the new safety valve, then fit the new anti-vac valve.

    if you fit the new anti-vac before removing the old safety valve you may struggle to get the old safety valve off

    also note that the wrench it not to be fitted to the top of the safety valve as that is only an anti-tamper cap

    on the old safety valve the wrench needs to be placed at the base of the valve

    happily on the new safety valve they have moved the nut up from the base of the valve to the middle of the valve so it is easier to remove if the anti vac valve is not being removed first

    kind regards

  • Thank you, Reiss, for your reply. I can see that I need a smaller hammer. I'll get one today, and let you know how it goes.

    Best wishes,
  • Note that I have shortened the handle on mine to give more control and manouverability

    You can use a 16oz claw hammer if that’s all you have, just use it with a bit more finesse
  • Manouverability is definitely the problem. Not so much the handle, as the size of the head.
  • All done. New vacuum relief valve and pressure safety valves fitted and tested. It was fiddly but doable with patience and the right tools. Thanks for your help, Reiss.

  • thanks for reporting back matthew. you'll find the new safety valve is excellent.
  • After a couple of days, I can report that the problem of slow warm-up of the group is fixed. Also, the group temperature seems to be more stable and to run a degree or so higher. I think I'll lower the boiler temperature high point from 1.2 bar to around 1.1 bar to compensate.

    Thanks, Reiss, for your diagnosis and assistance with fitting the replacement valves.

  • Hi Matt

    Yes, as you’ve seen with the LR, I, II, and III we always run the boilers at 1.0 bar to guarantee no flash boiling in the thermosiphon when the shot is pulled

    The trouble is on your machine that leaves you with only 1.0 bar of pre infusion, which is fine for darker roasts and/or smaller doses, but it makes it challenging for light roasts

    Whenever you get a group that’s slow to heat it’s the anti vac sticking; assuming it’s not limescale, but the number of people who have fouled the machine with limescale I could count on one hand

    That new design of safety valve is magic too


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