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Pump motor does not engage
Hi Reiss
It has been more than 6 months since last switched on Londinium R (have not touch, bump, move, nor open up the machine) for espresso making. Today, I turned the machine on, with prior water refill just below the “Max” mark (of course, discarded the old/staled water). Waited, when the blue light turned on, discovered there is no water pumping into the boiler (normally can hear medium frequency motor pumping noise) as normally do, but instead, only the low frequency humming sound, switched the machine off after 10 seconds.
Below experiments has been conducted, and the problem still persists:
1. Remove full tank of water
1.1 Switched the machine on
1.2 Machine keeps on beeping
1.3 Place the water tank into the water container housing with water level half full
1.4 Beeping stopped and waited, and then the blue light turned on
1.5 Pump motor still not engage
2. Empty the water tank
2.1 Then placed into the water container housing (no water inside the tank)
2.2 Switch on the machine
2.3 Machine keeps on beeping
2.4 Fill the water into the tank with half full
2.5 Beeping stopped and waited, and then the blue light turned on
2.6 Pump motor still not engage
3. Take out water level probe from the boiler for thorough cleaning
3.1 With the level probe still attached to the yellow wire terminal and connected to the GICAR
3.2 Double checked the wires on GICAR as well as other components are all connected properly
3.3 Turn the machine on
3.4 Waited the blue light turned on
3.5 Pump motor still not engage
3.6 Touch the level probe on the conductive part of the chassis and my figure
3.7 Then red light turned on with blue light
3.8 Pump motor still not engaging, but demonstrate the GICAR is still functioning, right?
Please advice for further experimentation if needed.
Thank you
Andy
It has been more than 6 months since last switched on Londinium R (have not touch, bump, move, nor open up the machine) for espresso making. Today, I turned the machine on, with prior water refill just below the “Max” mark (of course, discarded the old/staled water). Waited, when the blue light turned on, discovered there is no water pumping into the boiler (normally can hear medium frequency motor pumping noise) as normally do, but instead, only the low frequency humming sound, switched the machine off after 10 seconds.
Below experiments has been conducted, and the problem still persists:
1. Remove full tank of water
1.1 Switched the machine on
1.2 Machine keeps on beeping
1.3 Place the water tank into the water container housing with water level half full
1.4 Beeping stopped and waited, and then the blue light turned on
1.5 Pump motor still not engage
2. Empty the water tank
2.1 Then placed into the water container housing (no water inside the tank)
2.2 Switch on the machine
2.3 Machine keeps on beeping
2.4 Fill the water into the tank with half full
2.5 Beeping stopped and waited, and then the blue light turned on
2.6 Pump motor still not engage
3. Take out water level probe from the boiler for thorough cleaning
3.1 With the level probe still attached to the yellow wire terminal and connected to the GICAR
3.2 Double checked the wires on GICAR as well as other components are all connected properly
3.3 Turn the machine on
3.4 Waited the blue light turned on
3.5 Pump motor still not engage
3.6 Touch the level probe on the conductive part of the chassis and my figure
3.7 Then red light turned on with blue light
3.8 Pump motor still not engaging, but demonstrate the GICAR is still functioning, right?
Please advice for further experimentation if needed.
Thank you
Andy
Comments
your pump has tried to pull air at some stage, which results in high spindle speeds and a damaged pump lining soon afterwards, which prevents the pump from turning at start up, which is the hum sound you are getting - the motor is unable to turn the pump as it is binding in the liner
please destroy the original paper instructions you received with your machine and download v1.4 instructions pdf from the permanent file on this website; you will need to be logged in to do this
please follow v1.4 instructions closely when turning on the new pump for the first time
then flick me an email advising the address that you want me to send you a replacement pump to and i will get one on DHL for you
kind regards
reiss
Thank you for such swift reply.
Supposedly, these rotary pumps have longevity in lifespan (unlike DC motors), not sure when or how the pump gets damaged so quickly, as last time the machine still works beautifully, not to mention the machine only arrived September last year (2017), and only use it occasionally ever since.
From Londinium R user manual version 1.4 (page 9): Apart from time and audible information to restrict/prevent the pump getting damaged (lining stripping), are there other safety guidelines that we should follow to prevent this incident? How about switch off the machine? Should we consider and wait till the pump stop running in order to switch off safely (or it does not matter)?
Anyway, very grateful for such rapid response, an e-mail has been replied with the address information (no change), very appreciated with your help again.
Thank you very much
Andy
rotary pumps can be expected to have a long service life with one proviso; they are not self priming
this means they will not pull air in order to draw water to the pump - if there is air at the pump very high spindle speeds will result as there is no load on the pump and the lining will strip in seconds
after a prolonged period of inactivity, as you describe, you need to assume that the pump is going to have air in it and start it as if you are starting the pump for the first time following the instructions in manual v1.4
in particular you need to remove the water filter softening cartridge from the tank if there is one in place (it should be replaced after such a period of inactivity in any event) and then having cleaned the water tank and filled it with fresh clean water i recommend you carefully remove the clear silicone hose that supplies water to the inlet side of the pump and bleed any air in that hose our by draining water in that hose into a bowl until all the air bubbles stop appearing. then reconnect the clear silicone hose to the pump inlet
top the water tank back up to the 'MAX' line
then pull the lever handle down into the locked out position and leave it down, but take extreme care not to bump it as you may cause it to fly up and hit you in the face and inflict serious harm - catching the lever handle on the cuff of a short sleeve shirt as you work on the machine is a surprisingly easy way to achieve this
immediately turn the machine on and the pump should start
assuming it takes on the deep meaningful tone that indicates that it is under load and moving water, you can carefully return the lever to its upright resting position so things are safe
if the pump makes a light airy sound for more than about 3 seconds turn the machine off and investigate why
with the inlet hose to the pump bled of any air and the outlet side of the pump not under pressure with the lever arm in the locked down position the pump should prime almost instantly
hopefully it goes without saying that the above steps also need to be followed before you turn on the new pump i am sending you for the first time
kind regards
reiss.
Thank you for such descriptive step-by-step instruction, will take a look carefully when precede the prime after exchange the new piston pump.
The moral of the story is, one must be careful not let any air inside the inlet silicone hose, otherwise it might cause potential damage on the pump (lining stripping). Hence, the water tank should not constantly take out for water refill and removal of old/staled water, otherwise have to treated as if starting the pump for the first time.
Thanks again
Andy
Sorry took so long for the reply, was really taking my time for new rotary pump replacement (was mentioned piston pump on my last reply, please ignore my mistake), actually, did not wait for long on the new pump arrival, and was well packaged.
After carefully replaced the rotary pump and checked all the connections are well connected, and then applied your step-by-step prime instructions, it works! the machine works perfectly now.
With enclosed, is an audio recording file (rotary_pump01.zip) illustrating the pumping sound when every time blue light comes on, at the time (after an hour of warmup) I was testing the functionality of low water level probe and the pump, am not sure if the pump sounded alright or not?
Also, just wondering if the broken pump can be self-serviceable, i.e. dismantle the parts and replace the micro vane inside and seal in a vacuum environment? Of course it is easier said than done yeah?
Thanks again for your great support
Andy
rotary_pump01.zip
thank you for reporting back
yes, hold onto the pump for the moment as we are trying a few ideas but i can't see us getting much further on it until the new year
on the bottom of the pump is a pressure relief screw - if yours it completely screwed in hard then perhaps back it off a quarter of a turn - this may ease the pitch of the sound your pump makes
let me know how you get on
kind regards
reiss.
It has been a while (again)...
Was wondering what if just leave the pressure relief screw on the bottom of the pump as is, or turn back (or forward) one revotion if not completely screwed in tightly.
1. Will it cause any damage on the machine or rotary pump itself? or
2. The function of this screw to control the audible pitch of the pump or inlet/outlet of the water presure on the pump itself?
Thank you
Andy
the pressure relief screw on the bottom of the rotary pump is a very simple design
there is a machined horizontal passage that connects the outlet passage on the pump to the inlet passage
then the screw is turned vertically into this horizontal passage to close it off
if the screw is backed off say two turns anti-clockwise from this closed position then if the pressure on the outlet side of the pump is too great it allows some water to escape down the horizontal passage, around the slightly open tip of the screw, and over to the inlet passage and be sent through the pump again
it is a basic safety mechanism to protect the pump, for example if the inlet solenoid was obstructed
it is important that it is not opened too far on LR with the digital preinfusion as it will result in the pump not being able to deliver at the higher pressure settings and you will be wondering why the pump is running forever
kind regards
reiss.